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Housebreaking and Crate Training

Housebreaking

Whether you are adopting a puppy, a stray adult dog or a dog that was housebroken with his previous family, use the following tips to make sure your dog is doing his business in the right place:

  • Your newly adopted dog should be either with you or in a dog proofed area such as a kennel or gated room while you are in the housebreaking process. This allows for prevention of potential "accidents" which is the most positive way to start.
  • Set up a schedule of eating, drinking, exercise and elimination breaks. Generally dogs and puppies have to urinate and defecate within 15 - 30 minutes of eating and drinking. Other important times to take your dog out are: after sleeping, after vigorous play, when you return home and just before going to bed.
  • The number of hours puppies can "hold it" is generally equal to their age in months plus one. So, a puppy who is 2 months old could wait 3 hours between potty breaks if they were resting and not eating or drinking.
  • Make sure to go out with your dog and see them go. When they do go, reinforce this with either verbal praise or a really great food treat. Make sure that you give the food treat or praise immediately as they're finishing.
  • Take your dog out as much as possible in the first few weeks. Don't wait for the dog to give you a signal such as going to the door; many dogs don't give signals, especially young puppies.
  • If your dog does go in the house and you didn't catch him in the act, you missed the opportunity to get the dog out on time. Do not punish the dog for this "accident." Clean up with a product that is designed to enzymatically break down the urine and then try to think of why he went. Did he just eat? Did he just have an energy-filled play session? (Most puppies need to eliminate immediately after play.)
  • If your dog is going in the house and you are present, try to startle her. A quick hit to the wall will cause her stop (which is what you want). Quickly, put her leash on in a jolly manner and take her outside. Praise if she goes outside. Punishing your dog by yelling or "rubbing her nose in it" can cause your dog to fear you and may prolong housetraining.

Crate Training

Crate training your dog involves conditioning your dog to sleep in a crate when you're not home, at night, or when you need your dog confined in some way. There are many reasons to crate train your dog, including aiding in housebreaking and prevention of unwanted behaviors such as chewing, digging and getting into the garbage. Being able to crate your dog can also be great when you travel (a home away from home) and can be used when you have guests to your house that may be wary of dogs.

While crates can be thought of as similar to dens of wolves, this does not mean that your dog will jump in and feel at home right away...there is a training process.

  • The crate itself should be fit so that your dog can lie comfortably and be able to stand up and stretch a little. If a crate is too small, it can uncomfortable and if too large, it can be a doggie suite (bedroom and bathroom). If the crate you have is too large, block off the back portion with a safe, non-chewable box or board.
  • The crate should be in a social part of the house, but out of heavy traffic areas. The crate should have something soft inside to make it cozy.
  • Start introducing your dog to the crate by feeding him in it (or beside it, if he's afraid of the crate). You can also toss food treats and toys inside. Praise the dog when he goes in, but do not shut the door for the first few times.
  • Next, fill a kong toy with great treats, something extra special, and lure your dog into the crate. Shut the door, wait a few minutes, open the door and let him come out if he desires. The goal is to have your dog enjoy the crate (eat tasty treats from kong) without being anxious in it.
  • Successful crate training progresses slowly. You want to gradually build the time your dog spends in the crate. How fast you will be able to increase the time will vary with each dog. Don't expect the dog to last all day in the crate, especially in the beginning. Come home for lunch or arrange for a neighbor or professional dog walker to let your dog have a potty break and a good stretch.
  • If you come home and:
    • your dog has been drooling
    • her blanket is in a thousand pieces
    • your neighbors kindly told you that your dog barked the whole time you were gone
    • she runs away when you ask her to go to her crate

    you may need to decrease the time she spends in the crate and increase the good things happening in her crate.

  • If your dog starts to whine or bark in his crate, don't let him out right away. If you let him out, this will reinforce his demand, "let me out...NOW." Instead, try to startle him with a quick, abrupt sound (i.e. drop a book) and then let him out while he's quiet (and probably thinking - hey, what was that?)
  • Before you crate your dog for any extended period of time, make sure your dog has had a bathroom break and plenty of exercise. Your dog should be tired and ready for a lovely little nap while you go to work.

Some dogs are very sensitive about crates and become extremely anxious when they are in crates. Other alternatives are a baby-gated laundry room or bathroom. These rooms are generally tiled (in case you're housebreaking) and easy to dog-proof.

A few notes on leaving your dog home alone

Some dogs become stressed when their owners and gone and develop separation anxiety. The symptoms may include pacing, drooling, being destructive (when they usually aren't) and eliminating in the house (when you know they're housebroken). Shelter dogs appear to have a higher chance of developing separation anxiety.

Work on preventing separation anxiety before it starts:

  • Make arrivals and departures from your house low key. A simple "Hi sweetie" in a low, calm voice will do.
  • Practice departures before you really have to leave. Toss treats as you open the door you would go out. Grab your keys and toss treats. Put your shoes on and toss treats.
  • Give your dog something really good when you leave. A stuffed, sterile beef bone or a stuffed Kong keeps your dog busy and happy when you leave.
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Maddie's Fund Projects in Dane County

Learn about DCHS's collaboration with Shelter from the Storm and Dane County Friends of Ferals.  By working together we can reach our goal of making Dane County an adoption guarantee community by 2012.  Click here for more information.

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The Feline Friends Fund provides lifesaving donations directly to the homeless cats at Dane County Humane Society.  Contributions support cat adoption programs, spay and neuter surgeries to help reduce chronic overpopulation, as well as outreach and educational efforts to make our community a safer, kinder place for cats. Click here to donate directly to the Feline Friends Fund.

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All online orders will have net instant income (20%) donated to local shelters and rescue groups.  Want to have some fun? Host a workshop, we can stamp pet related cards, and I will donate instant income to the humane society as well.  Get your quality product and help homeless pets! For more information contact Teri Klawitter, Independent Stampin' Up demonstrator, at (608) 332-2392 or foldedhugs@charter.net.  You can also visit http://foldedhugs.googlepages.com.


Who's Helping Animals

Adam's Birthday

Thank you, Adam, for asking for donations instead of gifts for your birthday.  Thank you to both Adam and Owen for delivering gifts for the animals purchased with the donations!

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5132 Voges Road, Madison, WI 53718
Phone: (608) 838 - 0413